Plug into culture to avoid the shock. Get an understanding of the language, customs and food before you go and you can turn challenges into joys

http://www.montrealgazette.com/opinion/story.html?id=5096298

BY YI-JENG HUANG, FREELANCE JULY 13, 2011

An annoyed Taiwanese friend recently directed to me a story in The Gazette ("Seven strange months in Taiwan," Feb. 26) detailing someone's rather unfortunate experiences teaching in Taiwan. The story has spread virally among Taiwanese blogs, reaching even the Liberty Times, a mainstream Taiwanese newspaper. Many people have posted negative comments about the article's author, but I felt the story was really about a visitor's inability to understand a foreign culture, rather than an attack on cultural values. So with the help of Chuck, a Caucasian friend from Ontario who has taught in Taiwan for many years, I'd like to share experiences regarding the joys and challenges of travelling and teaching abroad.

In 2008, I returned to Taiwan after spending most of my life away from my country of birth. I speak rudimentary Mandarin at home, but can't read it to save my life. I was a definite tourist in my own country, without the benefit of at least looking like a foreign tourist. There was an initial fascination, followed quickly by cultural shock and frustrations, before I got used to it and started to have lots of fun. I imagine it was initially worse for Chuck.

Chuck says: In regard to my frame of mind for travelling to Taiwan, I was open to everything and prepared to abandon all my expectations and biases. I knew I would be in a vulnerable, disadvantaged position. To ease the blow of landing in a totally foreign country, I researched and began adjusting before I went over.

Preparation is key. No one was born riding a bicycle; you have to learn by trial, error and lots of practice. If you're not skilled at something before you go abroad - for example, map-reading - you won't suddenly become a walking GPS. You should start preparation at least half a year before you hop on the plane.

Preparing for the language shock: "Exotic" culture tends to mean non-English-speaking. I highly recommend a basic Mandarin course for half a year. Knowing the language enhances every aspect of your stay.

Chuck says: I made friends with some Chinese employees where I worked and learned basic Chinese pronunciation from them - numbers, hello, thank you, etc. I took a TESOL (Teaching English as a Second Language) course that included a component of adapting to a new culture - particularly Southeast Asia. I also went to Chinatown to get a "feel" for a Chinese environment.

Preparing for the food shock: Canada has some of the best Chinese restaurants outside of Asia, so take advantage of our multicultural heritage! Figure out your likes and dislikes. Once you get to Taiwan, definitely visit the many night markets with a local friend to experience the sheer number of delicious and scary authentic foods. If you miss a taste of home, go to the many Western-style restaurants in Taipei or cook your favourite spaghetti and meatballs from ingredients found at the supermarket. (I did, after my first week!)

Chuck says: I learned that fish and rice are staples of the Taiwanese diet. I didn't really like either, but I didn't want to go hungry, so I started eating it in Canada before I went. I eat rice almost daily now. I also went to Chinese restaurants and learned how to use chopsticks.

Preparing for the weather: Chuck says: On the Internet, I learned that Taiwan has incredibly hot summers, so I cranked up the heating in my apartment to maximum. Regarding bugs, Taiwan is an entomologist's paradise! Rhinoceros beetles, stag beetles, cicadas, hello! As for the cockroaches, it's all part of the adventure; I bought a pellet gun and went on roach safari in my apartment the first year I lived here!

I, err . never thought of hunting bugs with pellet guns, Chuck.

Transportation: So you've finally arrived in Taipei, armed with rudimentary Mandarin. At the airport you've exchanged the good old Canadian dollar for the New Taiwan Dollar (exchange rate roughly 1 to 30). You hop on the bus that will take you to Taipei, the capital and largest city in Taiwan. Then flag a taxi in Taipei to take you to your new residence.

Chuck says: As with travelling to any new place, the first thing you do is learn how to navigate. Make as many contacts as you can with other foreigners there, like the Canadian embassy. Take precautions, like having directions written in Chinese for a taxi driver. Also have backup emergency English service numbers (or friends you can call in a panic).

Chuck is absolutely correct. Before arriving in Taiwan, learn the correct pronunciation of the MRT, Taipei's world-class subway system. For bonus points, memorize "Where is the MRT?" in Mandarin. The system goes everywhere important, and it's fast, clean and cheap. To get to anywhere else, Taipei residents use scooters, an adventure category all by itself.

Meeting new friends: If you're aiming to make some Taiwanese friends, here are some helpful cultural insights. I find the Taiwanese to be "group-centric." If you are working together, or introduced by mutual friends, then Taiwanese people are pretty accepting. It is harder to befriend someone randomly on a bus, or sitting nearby at a restaurant (I tried) without any "group context." If you make a Taiwanese friend Canada-side, look the person up in Taiwan! Some of my best experiences came from these zealous friends taking me around town to all the restaurants and locales that only they would know.

Politics: Taiwan's official name is "Republic of China" (ROC), a bit confusing since the similar-sounding "People's Republic of China" (PRC) refers to mainland China. In 1996, Taiwan held its first direct elections for president, and it has since become a full-fledged democracy. Most Taiwanese are quite proud of their new political freedoms, so to avoid stepping on any landmines, here's a quick version of Taiwanese politics: Currently there are two main political viewpoints. The pan-green coalition supports the eventual independence of Taiwan, while the pan-blue coalition supports eventual reunification with mainland China. Discussion on this topic can be quite heated, much like our discussions regarding Quebec sovereignty. Keep a respectful tone and you'll get along fabulously with your new Taiwanese friends.

Taiwan's a great place to visit. The key to getting the most out of the experience is to prepare yourself - to get an understanding of the language, the culture and the food before you go. Keep an open mind about Taiwanese society. Before you know it, the year will be over and you'll wish you had more time to explore this fascinating island further.


Yi-Jeng Huang was born in Taiwan but has lived in Canada for more than 20 years. He works in the biotech industry in Vancouver.

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